Osteria Senz'Oste - The Veneto Osteria Without a 'Host'

Winding the Prosecco Road through rolling hills of tightly-packed, terraced vineyards, make sure to stop for lunch at this one-of-a-kind osteria.

An Italian osteria is a merry, rustic establishment traditionally stocking local wines and simple, artisan foods but this osteria is completely unique because it has no host -oste.

Many years ago now, Cesare De Stefani was sitting at a wooden table in his farming family's stone cottage as the sun dipped low over the vines. He put down his tumbler of wine and took a last glance at the rolling hills stretching before him. As the light danced on the leaves and the stems disappeared towards the horizon, he thought, "What if my friends enjoyed this place, even in my absence?" Before setting off, he left three bottles of wine and a couple of 'ombre' glasses on the table with the door unlocked.

But as much as they cherished the peaceful setting in Cesare's presence, nobody would visit without him. But then, Cesare had another idea - on his return, he made sure to leave a hand-written note beside the bottles on the table and, once again, left the door unlocked.

“Valore della bottiglia 10 euro, servitevi da soli e buona degustazione” "Value of a bottle 10 euros, serve yourselves and enjoy"

Next to the note was positioned a small collection box for any heartfelt contributions.

Suddenly word spread from friends to villagers as the secret spot began to grow in popularity. It became known locally as a beautiful place of trust and honesty, stocked simply with local wine, salumi, breads and cheeses where the people of Valdobbiadene could sit at rustic tables outside the old house in the warm months or light a fire inside during winter. Everyone who visited was trusted to treat the osteria with respect, to come and go as they pleased and to enjoy the beauty of an oasis nestled in the heart of Prosecco land, and Cesare's dream was accomplished.

Osteria Senz'Oste grows in fame

Since 2005, when Cesare first left the front door unlocked, Osteria Senz'Oste has become an iconic stop along the ever popular Prosecco Road from Valdobbiadene to Conegliano. After being picked up and published in many an international mag, the little osteria without a host has had to expand its parking areas to accommodate an increasingly steady flow of visitors. In the summer months, parking fills up astonishingly quickly and as much as the place extends out over slopes of shady vines yet somehow doesn't feel crowded, visitors do tend to queue for food and wine so make sure you time your visit well! Depending on how early in the day a glass of chilled wine feels appropriate, mornings are a favoloso time to visit. 5 AM to10/11 PM are the tavern's official opening hours but these are very loosely stipulated and no-one seems to mind when you get there or leave.

Valdobbiadene - Queen Capital of Prosecco

Cesare's family's farmhouse sits below a dirt track leading off the Prosecco Road through San Stefano, a small hamlet in Valdobbiadene - Queen Capital of Prosecco production. In 2019, this very specific region was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site and driving the winding roads you can see why - the Prosecco Hills are spectacular. Glera vines (making up 85% of prosecco) are squeezed into the hilly, terraced lands, right up to the roadside, simply to claim the right to bear the prestigious label: 'Prosecco di Valdobbiadene'.

And if you thought this was special, there's more.

Right in the middle of Valdobbiadene land, stands the iconic Cartizze Hill.

Due to specific soil qualities, winds and a precise microclimate, the very best grapes of the very best area are grown on a tiny hill behind Cesare's osteria. Very few visitors realise the importance of the humble place's positioning. Approaching a fork in the dirt road, stands a sign: 'Osteria Senz'Oste / Cima Cartizze' - the top of the hill.

Superiore di Cartizze

“Having a piece of land in Cartizze is like having a Ferrari in your garage,” - Primo Franco, vintner at Nino Franco winery.

As they say in Italian slang, it's the 'top del top'. Cartizze is believed in Italy to be the best Prosecco in Valdobbiadene, where the highest quality of Prosecco in Veneto is bottled. In an area of only 108 hectares, Superiore di Cartizze DOCG is produced with little mention of Prosecco at all because of labelling regulations, meaning the most prized of vines somehow slip through an international radar and Italians are left gleefully drinking the Ferrari of Veneto wines.

Foods and Wines

Drawing on Cesare's osteria success, his family members soon decided to extend their family butchery. As artisan wine makers, butchers and farmers, they began to stock their own salumi and cured meats with the growing fame of Osteria Senz'Oste.

On the Cartizze hill stands an impressive collection of high-tech, well-designed vending fridges, keeping a selection of beautiful wines at perfect temperatures while providing glasses and a minimal selection of snacks. It's a little odd to see these these juxtaposed against the rugged, twisting vines. And yes, there are people around to guide you if it all seems a little confusing, but in the same vein as Cesare's osteria, the hill has no oste - host. It's very much help yourself. Find a corkscrew to the left of the machines, choose your bottle and expect simple foods that Italy does best - local cheeses, salumi and crackers or tarralli. Then, thread the little paths winding up and down the hill between 'terrazzamenti' of leafy vines and the similarly contended day trippers to find a humble, table with an epic view. No cutlery is needed, the nibbles and wine are a mere compliment to the panorama which clearly is the main contestant here, competing with the wine, of course.

If you have a wander, you'll find Cesare's original house, lower down on the hill with a wider selection of foods - breads, boiled eggs, more cheeses, cold meats and water but sadly his trustful system never proved popular with the mistrustful Financial police and now everything has to be priced. You'll be pleased to known than when I visited, payment was still voluntary and placed in an honesty box.

Get all your heart desires in the form of foods and wines and go find a spot under the shady vines. There are busy tables outside the farm house but I'd always suggest the simple wooden seats constructed higher up to face the views. There are no rules here except to leave the place clean and tidy; some bring blankets and picnic for the day, some stop by with friends for golden hour. As easy-going as it gets, even in the height of tourist season, when parking spaces are few and far between, tables are not. Somehow even when the cartizze hill is full, there's still a calm, respectful space for everyone to be found.

When you are inside Cesare's house, have a read of all the written notes left hanging from the beams for an idea of how international this little place has become. One man's dream to share his favourite spot with his friends, that then became the world. I wonder if he still stops by?